Kashmiris, Faujis & the Snow

It was minus five degrees Celsius. As I got down from the bus and walked towards the army base camp at Changla Pass, I shivered and was almost running out of breath. The weather was so bitter icy. The army men welcomed us and served warm tea and biscuits. I tried to pick up a conversation with them but it was as if the words were getting frozen in my mouth. Still, with chattering teeth I asked one of the soldiers, “Aap log yahan itni thanda men itne mahino tak kaise reh late ho?” (How do you people stay here in such a cold weather for so many months?) The man looked at me with a smile and said, “Hum yahan itni thanda men aise reh lete hain, isliye to aap vahan aram se vaise reh lete hain.” (Because we live here in this cold, you people live comfortably wherever you are). These lines made me feel so petty in front of these men who are a symbol of national pride.

Ladakhi folk dance

It was a fifteen-day trip which started from Jammu. Jammu was really hot. Coming from Mumbai and passing through the hot western belts of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Haryana, we expected Jammu to welcome us with some cool breeze. But perhaps we were demanding a bit too much. But soon our expectation turned into a reality. As we kept moving up, climbing mountains and ghats through Pine trees and Chinars and Deodars, the temperature kept falling and suddenly we found ourselves pulling out our sweatshirts and sweaters off our bags.

The Sophia College group at Khardungla Pass

Soon we reached Srinagar renowned for its simmering lakes and the charming rows of houseboats floating on them. It is also known for traditional Kashmiri handicrafts and dry fruits. Mughal emperor Jehangir was so captivated by the beauty of this place that he said “Gar firdaus, ruhe zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto”, meaning “If there is a heaven on earth, it's here, it's here, it's here”. Now I know how true it indeed is! Kashmir is indeed a paradise on earth. The splendid houseboats that we stayed in were truly palaces and we were treated like real princesses! That night after such a tedious journey, we slept like logs.

The next day we visited Gulmarg where we had our first encounter with real snow — white, pristine snow! Throughout our journey one thing very obvious was the presence of army men all around. It would not be an exaggeration if I say that there are more Army men in Kashmir than Kashmiris themselves. At almost every kilometre we could see one armed man in his uniform guarding maybe the road, maybe the people, maybe a bridge, etc. Whatever it is hats off to these men. We girls developed such an admiration for these men that every time we saw them, we would wave, salute and scream “Jai Hind!” And of course, they would return the same.

Shaheen and friends in local Himachali outfits

The exploratory part of the journey started when we moved to Ladakh. The temperature kept falling until our lips chipped; we had dead cells, breathing problems, and altitude sickness. But nothing could dampen our spirit! We kept moving. Ladakh is a strange place. One moment you see snow-veiled mountains and nothing else, but by the time you take a nap in the bus and get up… you find a completely different landscape with no vegetation, just sand and barren mountains. The panorama of Ladakh was picturesque and beyond explanation. The road towards Ladakh is open only for three months because of heavy snow fall.

While in Ladakh, we were exposed to a very different kind of people and culture. People in Ladakh follow Buddhism and are mostly immigrants from Tibet. One could see posters of “Free Tibet from China” all over. In Ladakh we visited a lot of local places, had tasty momos and did a lot of local shopping. Being a very small city, people around knew that a bunch of girls from Mumbai had come and were having a time. They paid special attention to us as we interacted with them. We went horse riding, camel riding, got stuck in the snow, visited Pangong Lake, Kargil, Drass Memorial and so many places which, if not for this trip organised by the college, we would have never seen in our lives.

On the way to Manali from Ladakh

As the tour concluded with happy reminiscences of this beautiful seventh heaven, my mind was forced to think of how life has been cruel and unjust to one of our lots. We are all Indians but look at the disparity that exists within us. One lot lives comfortably in metros, in flats and shops in malls and roams around in Mercs and has all the possible freedom and comforts under the sun. And then there is another lot that lives constantly under the fear of militants and bullets.

Scrambled between Pakistan, China and India, what they wish for is just freedom, if nothing, at least the freedom of breath. The Indian government has a mammoth role to play in this region and I really hope they look at this place not merely as their international issue of winning unwanted concern and sympathy but make this place as safe and peaceful as other parts of India.

Spending time with those soldiers also taught us an important lesson. As youth of this country, what we normally do is lavish spending to be cool heroes in our colleges. But those men, who stand gallantly in temperatures that will cut your skin and breath down, are our true warriors… our true heroes.