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SEPTEMBER 2009

A tourist on the plateau in front of Thumbs Up, Karnala

Misty Magic

Verus Ferreira

The rains have always been awaited by many a traveler. As the skies pour water from the heavens washing away the dust and grime, misty hills and valleys entice you to visit nature. There's greenery all around, crawly creatures that suddenly creep onto your body… it can't get any better. The monsoon is the best season to be outdoors. Here are a few exotic destinations near Mumbai just waiting to be explored.

Karnala

Driving down the Mumbai-Goa highway an old faded sign indicates you’ve reached Raigad’s Karnala Bird Sanctuary. It may come as a surprise, but not many birds are found in the sanctuary’s 4.5 sq kms, so many visitors settle for the Karnala Fort trek. The peak is created by a thumb shaped pinnacle — the famous ‘thumbs up’ which is actually a 1,538 foot high volcanic plug. An hour and a half trek to the top brings you to a plateau and Bhavani Temple. The slight misty effect is welcome and the view awe-inspiring. Scaling the pinnacle is not advised if you don’t have with the right equipment. Back at ground zero you can spend the afternoon looking around and heading towards Pen that leads to a modern Shiva temple. Private hotels line the area and offer fairly good meals.
How to get there
By road: Mumbai-Goa highway
Distance: 65 kms
Route: From Thane creek-Panvel-Karnala


A car gets a cold shower while climbing up Malshej Ghat

Malshej Ghat

Located in the Western Ghats, Malshej is a big favourite with Mumbaikars and holds special value for nature lovers. A climb up at the ghat reveals the green carpet of the hills, ice cold waterfalls at every turn and fresh air. If you just can't resist the urge to get wet, get under one of the waterfalls. It can't get so refreshing ever! After you’ve had your shower of thundering water, look out for nearby bhajias and tea.

The ghat is home to migratory pink-legged European flamingoes during the monsoon and is a delight for bird watchers. Attracted by the Pimpalgaon Joga Dam, these graceful creatures flock in large numbers from July to September and can be spotted about 4 kms from the only private hotel, Flamingo Hill Resort. We were lucky to see the flamingoes taking flight very close to the Dam. The MTDC is the best place to stay with its revamped rooms overlooking the valley. If you’re lucky you’ll be enveloped in a cloud that almost moves into your room. We were reluctant to leave this romantic place even after two days, what with the wet peaks and blue grey clouds getting into you (literally) and giving you goosebumps. Located about 40 kms from Malshej is Shivneri Fort, the birthplace of Shivaji Maharaj. Make a trip (S.T. buses are quite frequent) to this fairly well-preserved fort that boasts of ancient water tanks and caves.
How to get there
Location: 153 kms from Mumbai
By road: 3½ hours
By Rail: Kalyan
Route: NH3 Bhiwandi-Kalyan-Saralgaon-Vaishakhare-Malshej Ghat


Ulhas River, Karjat

Karjat

Karjat is where the coastal plains of the Konkan end and Bhor Ghat begins. It is also a major railway junction diverting trains to south and north-east India. The place looks amazing in the monsoon and even after. While during the monsoon you may not be able to see the majestic hills in the distance, on a clear day you’ll have a panoramic view of pinnacles, forts, and steep cliffs situated nearby.

The adventurous can trek to the Maratha forts, or go monsoon white-water rafting on the Ulhas River. You needn't worry about staying, for 10 kms into Karjat lies Kondana Village. Vanivihar is a simple lodge at Kondona run by the Gogates. Very rustic accommodation, but a peaceful ambience welcomes you. The lodge overlooks Ulhas River and a hill that at times gives you a view of an emerging passing mail train. It’s very picturesque and eerie at night especially when you suddenly hear the hooting of the train. A morning to evening stay with breakfast, veg lunch and tea is a cool Rs 200 per head.


Kondana Caves, Karjat
During the day the Gogates advise you to take the trail to the ruins of the rock-cut 2nd century Buddhist caves of Kondana. Situated a good hour’s walk on a plateau and then uphill, the caves are still in their prime, complete with stupa, chaitya, vihara and exquisite sculptures. The trail continues uphill on an even steeper climb to Rajmachi Fort — a total of 4 hours trekking from the base.

There's also the over 3 hour trek to nearby hill station Matheran via Rambagh Point. One of the trails leads you to Big Chowk Point also known as Elephant Head. You need to look really well on a clear day to see why it is named so. Higher up you reach Shivaji Steps and after a long walk over boulders and heavy pebbles it’s finally the famous One Tree Hill of Matheran. The only way back to Karjat is walking down, but it’s advisable to head to Neral by cab or the toy train from Matheran and cab it out to Karjat.

Other places to visit include Ambivli Village that has the Peth Fort in Peth village and the steep Bhimashankar, a treacherous 7 hour trek away. A local villager from Khandas Village will only be grateful to help you on this long trek in return for a small sum of money. The view is incredible.

If you are just spending a day moving in and around Karjat, eating at local restaurants is not recommended. Settle for one of the hotels or resorts (Dr Modi’s) in the area that are pricey, but safe.
How to get there
Location: 88 kms from Mumbai
By road: 2½-3 hours
By train: Karjat
Route: Vashi Bridge to Panvel, NH 4-Chauk-Karjat
Best time to visit: July-December
Vinayak Gogate: 9271618184


Bushy Dam, Lonavala

Lonavala–Khandala

The twin hill stations of Lonavala and Khandala are closest to Mumbai and easily accessible with the Mumbai-Pune expressway. There’s no better spot in the rains in Lonavala than Bushy Dam (6 kms from Lonavala) as it overflows and spills onto the steps and onto the road. Thousands of young and old flock to the place. Over the weekend it’s a scrabble for a place at the top. It’s a great feeling sitting leisurely on the steps sipping hot chai while the gushing milky water hits you from behind giving you a relaxing massage. The adventurous roll down the steps and walk upwards against the raging water!

After a waterfall bath, explore the posh Ryewood Park with its neat lawns and open spaces to laze around, ideal for picnickers. Opposite is the Christian graveyard that dates back over a 100 years and is worth a dekho. You can’t miss Duke’s Nose, named after one of the British Governors of Bombay. It is locally known as Nagphani (Cobra’s Hood). Khandala gives you an easy access to trek to this spot. You will pass Tata Electric Company’s Fore Bay, INS Shivaji (a training school) and later in the distance Sausage Hills. Lastly don’t miss the breath-taking Kune Waterfalls in the heart of the Lonavala-Khandala valley. See it just as you come out of the last tunnel to enter Lonavala while travelling by train from Mumbai to Pune.

About 15-18 kms from Lonavala is Malavali with its Karla and Bhaja caves — Buddhist rock cut caves and forts. An auto ride will take you to Lohagad Fort (Iron fort, 3,410 ft) or Visapur Fort (3,565 ft).

Lonavala and Khandala are known as the chikki capitals as residents have mastered the art of making the sweet, brittle candy. There’s chocolate fudge, caramelized sugar and dry fruits or nuts, peanuts, walnuts, dates, etc. Advance hotel bookings are an absolute must unless you plan to visit both places in a day. There are plenty of budget hotels to suit the pocket and enjoy a two day holiday by the hills.
How to get there
Location: 100 kms from Mumbai
By road: 2 hours
By rail: Lonavala and Khandala
Route: Mumbai-Pune Expressway, turn left at Lonavala

Photos: Verus Ferreira

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